Tomatillos are high in vitamins C and K, and niacin and fibre. Check here for detailed information from the USDA National Nutrient Database for Standard Reference.

The Canadian Food Guide recommends that roughly half of the food on your plate should be fruits and vegetables.

Tomatillos require a long, warm growing season and must be transplanted in the Prairie garden. Tomatillo transplants can be grown in your home or purchased from a local greenhouse. 

Starting your own tomatillo plants from seed

• Start transplants at about 6 weeks prior to planting out, ideally about two weeks after your last frost free date in spring. In Saskatoon, your frost free date is May 13 so start indoors around the beginning of April.
• You can start tomatilloes indoors earlier than April 1, but they will quickly outgrow their pots. Be prepared to pot them into larger pots to ensure a healthy root system.
• The planting timeline can be shifted with season extending methods such as heating the soil and using water-based transplant sleeves like ‘Wall O’Water’®
• Sow seeds 0.5cm deep in a commercial soil-less media containing peat moss or coir with perlite and/or vermiculite.  Soil-less media provides a disease-free environment as well as excellent drainage to minimize root disease problems. 
• Use flats, pots or containers with bottom drainage holes.  At a soil media temperature of  24-32˚C, seeds will germinate in about a week. Seedling heating mats help to maintain warm soil temperatures for seed germination. 
• Good lighting is crucial for the growth of healthy seedlings. 
• Leave a fan blowing on your young seedlings as they grow to will help to grow heartier plants and to reduce some seedling diseases. Research has shown that stem diameter can be increased and height controlled by providing seedlings with constant air movement from an oscillating fan – or by lightly brushing seedling tops with a tea towel or stick at least 20 times daily.
• For more details, check out our article on growing your own transplants.

The ideal tomatillo seedling

• Sturdy and short, and dark green in colour.
• Has not yet flowered or set fruit.
• Has a good root system but is not root-bound (tight, hard ball of roots that do not break apart when gently massaged). 
• Has a strong and sturdy stem.  The internodes (spaces between leaves along the stem) will be small.  Transplants that are too tall will tend to break and dry out more easily once planted out into the garden.  

Start fertilizing after the seedlings have their first true leaves. Wait a few days before fertilizing if you have transplanted your seedlings. Fertilize transplants two times/week using 20-20-20 water-soluble fertilizer.  Mix according to label directions.

Tomatillo transplants must be hardened off before transplanting outdoors.

Pollination

• Note that tomatillos are self-incompatible, which means that tomatillos must cross pollinate in order to set fruit. Tomatillos rely on insects for pollination. Plant at least two tomatillos for good fruit production.

Timing

• Tomatillos must be planted as transplants and not sown as seeds. See our transplants tab for tips on growing your own transplants.
• Tomatillo plants are a warm season crop so they are very sensitive to cold temperatures and frost damage. Be prepared to protect plants with covers or blankets in the event of late spring/early summer frosts.  It is best to transplant Tomatilloes into the garden after all danger of frost has passed.  The “average day of the last spring frost” in the Saskatoon area is typically May 13, but it's best to transplant a week or two after that date.
• These timelines can be shifted with season extending methods such as heating the soil and using water-based transplant sleeves like ‘Wall O’Water’®.
• Tomatillo transplants must be hardened off before transplanting outdoors.

Planting instructions

• Gently massage the roots within the plug so that the roots will grow into the surrounding soil and not remain restricted within the ball.
• When planting, cover the entire transplant “plug” or seed ball with soil to prevent the plant from drying out.  Exposed peat within the plug will act as a wick, drawing water away from the transplant and drying out the root ball.
• Ideally, transplant on a cool, cloudy day. Hot, windy days will easily desiccate tender transplants. 
• Tomatilloes are unique in that they do better planted deeper than normal. Plant them deeply in the ground so that the soil level is just below the lowest leaves. You can also dig a trench and lay the plant in it to bury long stems. Ensure that the whole stem is covered with soil up to the the first set of leaves. The advantage of this is that the stem will produce roots and establish a larger, stronger root system.
• Avoid planting into cooler soil. For extra protection for your newly planted tomatillo transplants, place tin cans or milk cartons with the tops and bottom removed around plants and insert containers several centimeters into the soil. Not only does this provide some wind protection and increase soil temperature, but it may also discourage cut worms.
• Tomatilloes have a wide and somewhat sprawling growth habit. They grow up to a metre tall and wide. Use tomato cages or stakes and ties to support the plant.
• Water-in the transplants with a starter fertilizer higher in phosphorous for good root growth (ex. 10-52-10) Mix according to label directions.

Don't forget to label what you planted. It's also helpful to draw a map or take a photo of your vegetable garden to help you track planting locations and success each year. This information is critical if you're rotating your crops to help prevent insect and disease issues.

• Gardeners who want to get an early jump on the growing season, can warm up the soil with ‘Wall O’Water’®: a series of plastic tubes filled with water joined together to form a wall of water around the transplant.  ‘Wall O’ Water’® can protect plants to -11˚C.  tomatillo transplants could be planted out at least 2 weeks earlier on the prairies provided the soil under the ‘Wall O’ Water’® has also been warmed.
• Tomatilloes are a ‘warm season crop’. This means they prefer warm temperatures and very sunny conditions for optimal growth.  Tomatilloes benefit from planting in black, clear or dark green plastic mulch. The mulch increases soil temperature as well as conserving soil moisture and suppressing weed growth.
• Tomatilloes also benefit from supported crop covers throughout the season; the covers will warm the air surrounding the plants and encourage plants to flower, fruit and mature earlier than outside covers.  Tomatilloes are self-incompatible, which means that tomatillos must cross pollinate in order to set fruit, so it is necessary to open up or remove the crop covers when they are in flower in order to get fruit. Tomatillos rely on insects for pollination.  
• Perforated clear plastic tunnels or covers are not recommended as temperatures can be extreme, which can cause tomatillo flowers to abort.     

• Tomatillos that need more than ’70 days to maturity’ will probably not fully mature during an average Saskatchewan growing season.
• These tomatillo varieties are available as seeds:
  • 'Toma Verde' (70 days to maturity) open pollinated; green fruit
  • 'Purple Coban'  (70 days to maturity) open pollinated; small (3 cm diameter) purple fruit
  • 'Tomatillo Purple' (70 days to maturity) open pollinated; bright violet fruit
  • 'Plaza Latina' (70 days to maturity) open pollinated; large, green fruit
  • 'Queen of Malinalco Tomatillo' (70 days to maturity) open pollinated; large, tapered yellow fruit
  • 'Amarylla Tomatillo' (70 days to maturity) open pollinated; early, yellow fruit; compact plant

Here are cultivar recommendations from the North Dakota State University Cultivar Trials, as they share a similar prairie climate and soils. You may download their list here: North Dakota State University Vegetable Cultivar Recommendations for 2021

• no cultivar recommendations available

The following cultivars are recommendations from the University of Saskatchewan vegetable program field trials which were conducted from 1989 through 2016. 

• no cultivar recommendations available 

Actively growing tomatillo plants need 2.5 cm water/week. They also benefit from mulch, in the garden or in a pot. 

Fertilize tomatillo plants using a side dressing of compost. Another way is to use a granular fertilizer formulated for vegetables according to the manufacturers instructions. Tomatilloes grown in containers in soil less potting mix need regular fertilizing with a water soluble 20-20-20 fertilizer applied according to the manufacturers instructions - usually once or twice a week. 

Avoid using high nitrogen fertilizers such as 32-0-0, which encourages leafy growth at the expense of fruit production. 

Tomatilloes can also benefit from supported crop covers throughout the season; the covers will warm the air surrounding the plants and encourage plants to flower, fruit and mature earlier than outside covers.  However, 

Staking

• Tomatillos grow to about one metre tall and wide, with a sprawling growth habit. They benefit from a trellis or staking to keep them upright. A tomato cage also works well for this.

Pruning

• Pruning is not usually necessary but tomatillos that are very dense can benefit from light pruning to allow more light and air into the canopy. Simply remove some of the vines at the base of the plant, no more than 20% of the entire plant.

Tomatillos are not suitable for fall seeding.

Coming soon

See our preservation section for more videos.

Given its size, 'Amarylla Tomatillo' (70 days to maturity) open pollinated; early, yellow fruit; is a compact plant that would work well in a container.

These would work in larger containers:

'Toma Verde' (70 days to maturity) open pollinated; green fruit
'Purple Coban'  (70 days to maturity) open pollinated; small (3 cm diameter) purple fruit
'Tomatillo Purple' (70 days to maturity) open pollinated; bright violet fruit
'Plaza Latina' (70 days to maturity) open pollinated; large, green fruit
'Queen of Malinalco Tomatillo' (70 days to maturity) open pollinated; large, tapered yellow fruit

Tomatillo seeds can be saved from “heritage” or “open-pollinated” plants. If the plant tag or seed package from the original plant says “hybrid”, the plants grown from seeds collected from hybrid plants won't look the same next year.

Note that tomatillos are self-incompatible, which means that tomatillos must cross pollinate in order to set fruit. Tomatillos rely on insects for pollination. If you grew two different varieties of tomatillos then there is a chance of cross-pollination, which means that plants grown from seeds collected may not be the same as the parent plant. 

This fermentation method gets rid of the pulp on seeds which inhibits germination.

1. Let two or three tomatillos ripen as long as possible on the plant before frost. Avoid saving seeds from diseased plants as disease can harbour on the seeds and be carried over.
2. Cut open the tomatillos and scoop the seeds into a bowl.  Seeds have a slimy coating called pulp. Put the seeds and pulp in a container with a lid. Label the container with tomatillo name and year. Add some water – the seeds and pulp will float to the top.
3. Keep this in a warm place for 3 – 5 days. The warmth causes the pulp to rot and ferment. This releases the seeds which will drop to the bottom of the container.
4. Once the seeds have separated from the pulp and dropped to the bottom of the container, add some water and pour off the rotted pulp.
5. Fill the container again. Let the seeds sink to the bottom and pour off the water.
6. Now dump the seeds and water into a fine mesh strainer. Rinse under cool water.
7. Put the seeds on to coffee filter and spread them out to let them dry.  It may take several days for the seeds to dry completely.

Or, you can simply wash and strain the seeds and spread them on a plate or tray to dry. Before you plant these seeds, pre-soak them in water for a few hours to get rid of the coating.

 
How to store seeds
Vegetable seeds can keep for several years if you store them properly. Seeds should be stored in a cool, dry, dark place. Moisture, heat and light can cause seeds to sprout or rot.

• Place your seeds in envelopes or make your own envelopes out of foil or waxed paper. Label with name of the seeds and the date (month and year) you harvested them.
• Place your envelopes inside an airtight container. To help keep seeds dry, place about a tablespoon of dry powdered milk in a paper towel or piece of cloth, secured with a twist tie or piece of string. The powdered milk will absorb humidity and keep seeds dry inside the airtight container.
• Put the container in the refrigerator. Do not store seeds in an unheated shed or garage. These places are either too moist and/or too cold for seed storage.
  
  

Harvest ripe tomatillos by lifting the fruit upward from the bottom - most of the time the tomatillo will naturally "break" off the stem. 

Tomatillo can be frozen, dehydrated, or canned.

Tomatillos are a low acid food and must be processed using a high-pressure canner designed for canning to process the food to the temperature necessary to destroy botulism spores. Without the addition of an acid, high-pressure canning is the only way to guarantee safe canning. 

However, if you are processing tomatillos with the addition of vinegar or lemon juice (which changes the acidity), then a boiling water canner may be used.

Tomatillos are tradionally used to make salsa verde (see recipe) or to make a sauce for tacos or carnitas. Roasting tomatillos in the oven or on the BBQ enhances their flavour and can be served this way or used in other recipes. They are sometimes used in chutney or relish.

• Download entire series here